Saturday 24 March 2012

Dynamic Denims


Dynamic Blues are rocking the fashion streets. The shops are flooded with brands, old and new, inviting to take your pick. Jeans was once considered the single most potent symbol of American style on planet Earth. Jeans have come a long way, from a time, when some schools in America had actually put a ban on them.

Despite travelling through many eras, Jeans are here to stay. Who would have imagined two decades ago that more weary, woe-be-gone and faded pair of jeans will look the most fashionable. In fact, innovations and new styles have always revived them, given them a new look and made them hot favourites for anyone and everyone. Jeans have weathered many storms since its inception in 18th   century. The California Gold Rush in 19th century, war in 1940, the cold war in the 60s and 70s and the latest recession in the 1990s, all passed by, leaving Jeans still in demand.

Earlier, Jeans was looked upon as a symbol of rebellion. Guys, who used to wear Jeans, were not considered decent. With time, the taboo was broken and perceptions changed. Jeans have been accepted as a universal outfit for every generation. People do not mind legging in these, even in social gatherings and parties. This overwhelming response from public has compelled fashion designers to work on Denim, for newer styles and fits.

Top-rank fashion designers are introducing new designs of Jeans, every now and then. New-fits are being introduced, which cater to every age group. Tight-fit Jeans attract younger generations and basic comfort-fits suit the middle-aged and above.
During the last decade and so, the Denim has evolved into an all time selection. Even the young mothers of 1990s were totally swept by it as it offered a whole lot of kid’s wear which are both, rough and tough.

Lee Coopers, Lee, Wrangler, Levi’s and Pepe, are some of the most popular brands doing the rounds. Most Jeans companies are growing at the rate of 20 to 25 percent, annually. However, in India the market is not too roomy. The competition in this circuit is stiff, making it hard for every company to strive for profit sharing.

New trends are evolving as customer’s choice is changing. The need for variety wardrobe is fast catching up. Stylized Jeans are making new waves. Revolutionary cuts, shapes and styles, authentic, vintage and ethnic, cotton, lycra and polyester blends, and varied colours are all in the business, as long as it clicks and shelves keep off-loading.

People are now going in for more light weight, relaxed jeans suitable for conditions of tropical countries like ours. The feel and look of these are totally different from those conventional heavy jeans. Some of the popular brands are hitting the markets with more experimentation —carving zardosi, bead work, swarovski crystals, sequine, hand embroidery, metal studs, buckles and flairs. These styles give a unique Indian look to this western clothing.

Recently, ‘boot cut’, a new style in Denim has stormed the streets. A great hit with the youngsters, it kept the sales chart moving upwards. Also, flat fronts, cross pockets, three overlapped pleats, all this and much more is happening for the fashionables.
With plenty of varieties and styles to pick from, Denim remains the longest lasting fashion statement.

Denim Details
LAST DECADE of the 20th century saw a complete makeover of technology and lifestyles. Even in India, people are becoming more and more conscious of their appearance.  The dress sense is shifting towards comfortable, yet trendy dressing, and Denim has become a ‘must-have’ in the wardrobe. Denim dominates the youth fashion mantra as nothing before. Despite being so popular and widely worn, very few people know much about it.

Jeans is not a fabric and even the word ‘Denim’ is often misunderstood. Jeans is a pair of trousers made out of cotton fabric, called Denim. Denim is a twill-weave fabric with distinguishable diagonal lines made by weaving. Originally, Denim was made only in indigo and blue colours but, today it is available in variety of colours and shades, usually over-dyed on the fabric.  Different shades of blue are obtained by washing Denim fabric with different chemicals and other processes. These washes are called acid wash, stone wash and peach finish. Any thick cotton fabric in indigo or blue colour is not Denim.

New names are emerging in the market for trouser materials, like khakis, chinos and gabardines. They all are basically cotton or blended twill-weave fabric of different thickness, yarn count or colour; khaki is a khaki-colour gabardine. They are different from Denim.

Jeans were initially made out of a thick canvas fabric as a work-wear for miners, and it eventually developed into a fashionable casual wear.

A basic Jeans has five pockets, two at the back, two in front and one small pocket. The others are adapted styles, according to use and fashion. These are called by different names like cargo, six or eight pocket trousers or baggies.

A Jeans may or may not have topstitching which can be in contrast or matching. It also has a variety of fits that change with fashion fads. These fits are suited to different figure-types. Some of these are:

Classic fits— they are semi-fitted and suits on most people and are the most comfortable.

Tight fits—they can be stretchable and suits only on long and thin legged persons.

Boot cuts— the trousers are tight at thighs and hips but widens at the hems.

Straight fits— these have an overall parallel-fit and suits on people with heavier hips and waists.

Anti fits—it is the latest trend and it looks best on very thin people, giving them a little volume.

Low waists—trousers that generally fit around the naval, it is called natural waist. A little below waist level is called low waist. If one wears a 24-size natural-waist jeans, the size of the low waist should be 26, i.e., one size larger.

Last but not the least, jeans is a casual wear garment, though a number of designers have used Denim for formal wear also, it still does not qualify for a formal or party wear. Now that it is the most happening fashion statement, many yuppies can be seen sporting Denims in the evening, as well. The more faded and worn out they look the better it seems to get, by the day.

Blue Print
The Jeans cult was named after sailors from Genoa from Italy. It is believed that it has originated from a European material called jean. As far as Denim is concerned, it originated from a French material called Serge de Nimes.

Denim is unique in its singular connection with one colour as warp-yarn is dyed traditionally with a blue pigment extracted from indigo dye. Before 20th century, synthetic dye was not known and indigo was the only dye used in manufacturing of Jeans.

Denim offers durability, but cannot sustain frequent washing as colour fades away with every wash.

Lee Jeans introduced the first pre-washed Jeans whereas Francois Girband was the first to introduce stone-washed Jeans.

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